Peptides Explained

A simplified look at skin care's latest spotlight ingredient. I mentioned peptides in my last post but what should you look for and why should you love peptides.

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December 2026

What is a peptide?

They're proteins (amino acids) that give your body more materials for youthful skin or, directions to produce more materials/ stop degrading your current material for improved skin health.

Mainly we are talking collagen (skin plumpness), elastin (skin bounce), copper (skin healing), and muscle movement (wrinkles).

If you want a comprehensive (complicated) list of most popular peptides in skincare, I highly recommend the Paula's Choice Ingredient Directory. If you want a shorter list of what you're more likely to see in the beauty shop keep reading here.

In more scientific terms, which you might not remember but could refer back to when trying to impress at a party. Peptides are amino acid compounds that improve collagens synthesis, enhance skin cell proliferation, reduce pigment, improve the skin's barrier function, or decrease inflammation (PMC) They can be made from plants, animals, proteins, biotech chemical, fungi, basically anything (Intertek). Peptides gained popularity in the fitness world among body builders but cosmetic labs have harnessed that power to bring consumers closer to their personal fountain of youth.

What are the types of peptides?

Determined by the amino acid sequence, peptides can be signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, or enzyme inhibitor peptides.

Signal Peptides (Tells your Cells What to Do)

What are the peptides signaling? Your fibroblasts. Firbroblasts, similar to stem cells can produce new tissue inside your body (fibrobiologics). In the case of skincare the peptides are telling your fibroblasts to create more collagen, increase antioxidant production, or make more hydration/ hyaluronic acid. This means more bounce back in your skin and softened appearance of fine lines. This is the reason why many skincare professionals suggest peptides as an alternative to retinol. Peptides allow for the experience of skin rejuvenation, without the irritation often caused by retinol products.

Pentapeptide-4 - Also known as Matrixyl. Produces collagen and elastin. Found in Naturium Multi Peptide Rich Cream.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide - Promotes firmness and skin strength. Found in Paula's Choice Pro Collagen Multi Peptide Booster.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 - Produces collagen. Found in Rhode Peptide Lip Treatment and Olehenricksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment.

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 - Produces collagen. Found in Olehenricksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment.

Sh-Polypeptide-121 - Increases antioxidant production and makes vitamin C more effective. Found in Youth to the People Future Cream.

Carrier Peptides (Brings Supplies to the Cells)

Peptides can carry supplies (hence the name carrier peptide) to the cells and in medical settings that they carry can become quite complex. In the skincare world peptides are carrying mostly copper, a trace mineral needed by the body to support skin repair and wound healing. Manganese can also be transported via carrier peptides, resulting in similar uses as copper and reducing oxidative stress on the skin.

Copper Tripeptide-1 - Aids in skin regeneration and wound healing. Found in Biossance Squlane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum.

Neurotransmitter Inhibitor Peptides (Stops Movement)

One of the most interesting types of peptides are neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides. These stop signals from getting to skin cells. Blocking calls to skin cells is useful in skin care because it can cause muscle relaxation, think botox. These can be applied topically to reduce muscle movements that cause wrinkles (Dr. Dustin) Neurotransmitter inhibitors won't freeze your face but, with regular daily use you will experience slowed formation of fine lines and softening of the aging process.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 - Also known as Argireline. Buildable muscle relaxation results similar to botox over time. Found in Estes Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Serum.

Tridecapeptide-1 - Instant fine line smoothing and muscle relaxation (15mins). Found in Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer.

Pentapeptide-18 - Also known as Leuphasyl. Reduces muscle contractions. Found in The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum.

Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides (Slows Aging)

We can't stop time but we can use enzyme inhibitor peptides to help reduce collagen and elastin breakdown (Medik8). Collagen and elastin are the juicy bouncy goodness below the surface of the skin that prevent wrinkles from forming. Without these two specialized proteins our face would just be skin and bones. Enzyme inhibitors help to slow the break down of specific proteins to preserve the structural integrity (and youthful appearance) of our skin.

Glycerine Soja - Also knowns as Soybean peptide. Prevents estrogen loss in addition to defending skin from environmental stressors (Paula's Choice). Found in Fresh Soy Face Cleanser.

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2 - Also known as Progeline. Prevents production of specialized proteins that break down elastin and cellular matrix (Cipher). Found in Biologique Progeskin.

Pentapeptide-4 - Also known as Matrixyl. Previously mentioned in the signal peptide group. Produces collagen and elastin and can also persevere existing collagen and elastin. Found in Naturium Multi Peptide Rich Cream.

There are hundreds of other peptides used in skincare today, all with similar goals of preserving skin youthfulness and health. Just know if you see peptides in your skincare, it's a good thing. This is however the part where you as a consumer should begin to embrace bioengineering. The botox like results and the firm bouncy cheeks aren't possible without science. These products may not always be marked as clean but, it doesn't mean they are dirty either.

Thank you so much for taking the time to read this article. If you know someone who might enjoy reading this, please pass it along so they can join the newsletter. Also check out my recent 2026 Trend Forecast for something more lighthearted or my article on Dior's brand DNA.

Cheers,

-Katt